Installation Guide

Studs with an anchor shank (eg Metal studs)

Different methods of drilling the required holes:

A compressor and small jack hammer (most popular method as it is efficient and causes the least damage to the road surface).
A generator and electric drill (more for concrete surfaces - see comment below *)
A hammer and chisel

Note that due to the cost implications, this method is only used on tarred surfaces in approved circumstances. The specifications for the holes that must be drilled for the metal studs are as follows:

  • Lynx aluminium = width of the hole must be 22mm and the depth 70mm
  • Ferro Lynx A200 = width of the hole must be 25mm and the depth 55mm
  • Holes on bridges should be 45mm (McNaughtans need to be informed of such specs, in order that they may shorten the shanks accordingly)

Sundry tools required for installation

  • 1 scraper (for removing excess epoxy)
  • 1 hammer (for tapping the stud into place)
  • 1 measuring tape (to measure the distances between the studs)
  • 1 mixing rod (round bar 250 mm long to mix the 2 component epoxy)

Epoxy

  • A 2 component epoxy is usually used. Part A and part B should be mixed thoroughly
  • 8 to 10 studs can be installed per liter of epoxy.

Please note: To avoid wastage do not mix more epoxy than what will be required in the next 25 minutes
(ie start with 1 Liter only)

Installation

  • Hammer a hole into the road surface using a 22 mm moil point or drill bit.
  • Remove any debris from the hole, and sweep the surrounding area clean
  • Flatten any upstanding tar around the hole
  • Fill hole with epoxy adhesive (press down with rod, if necessary) and apply approximately 1mm to the bottom of the roadstud. Add more epoxy into cavities under the stud, should they exist (as in the case of the Ferro Lynx).
  • Place the stud in the epoxy filled hole and press down firmly. A hammer may be used to tap the stud into place. Ensure that the base of the stud is flush with the road surface as well as being correctly aligned (ie facing the traffic).
  • When the stud is pressed into the hole any excess epoxy will bubble out the sides of the roadstud.
  • Specifically ensure that the four corners of the stud have bonded well with the road surface
  • Ensure that a 2 to 3mm wide and high brim of adhesive surrounds the roadstud completely
  • Curing time for the epoxy is 30 minutes.

Studs without anchor shank (eg Plastic studs)

  • Sweep the surface of the road clean with a broom, removing any dust and loose particles
  • Cover the entire underneath face of the roadstud with adhesive, approximately 1mm thick. Add more epoxy into the shell, if the bottom of the stud is ribbed.
  • Press the stud onto the road, ensuring that it is correctly aligned (ie facing the traffic)
  • Specifically ensure that the four corners of the stud have bonded well with the road surface
  • Ensure that a 2 to 3mm wide and high brim of adhesive surrounds the roadstud completely
  • Curing time for the epoxy is 30 minutes.

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